The quick answer is Yes!

The longer version: We can certainly recommend some good candidates for the space based on species' size or other factors (shade tree, privacy, fast growing, flowering, environmental tolerance, etc.) but we will leave the choosing of specific cultivars to you.

Ideally, the fall or the spring is best, though shearing through the winter is ok as long temperatures are mild. 

The main benefit of shearing in the Spring (March-May) is that you can shear hard for containment/to gain as much space as possible while maintaining greenery, knowing that as the summer growing season begins you'll soon have a vigorous response to repair what was done. This is the best time for hedge restorations/harder reductions as it will minimize the time of looking at an unsightly situation while waiting for the hedge to respond with new growth. In addition, for those who prefer the look of a more natural hedge, hedges sheared in the spring will grow out and look fuzzy for the rest of year till the following spring.

The benefit of shearing in the Fall (September-November) is in making hedges smaller over the winter months to reduce the likelihood of snow damage. Hedges that are wide or have poor internal structure are prone to snow damage and should be sheared in the fall. As well, if you like a formal looking hedge, shearing in September-October will give you almost 9 months of crisp hedges before they begin to grow again the following June.

The worst times to shear are in the summer (when it is really hot) and in the winter (when it is really cold). If it is a very light shearing, the damage done will be fairly temporary but we would definitely not recommend heavy shearing or restoration work during this time.

It depends on what you need.

Usually when we take on stump grinding/removal, the main focus is the core stump and visible surface roots. We leave the majority of the root canopy that is underground to return to nature via decomposition unless they are causing harm.

If you have a tree that is outgrowing the space it is in and concrete is lifting or cracking, the first thing you should do is collect more data. This means you need to do some digging and see if you can identify the actual root that is doing the damage. Once confirmed, the roots can be pruned to stop the lifting or cracking.

Depending on the situation, you may want to consult an ISA arborist for more information. Some arborists are very familiar with digging around roots and have specialized equipment like an air spade to help explore and prune as necessary. Depending on the proximity of the tree and size of roots that need to pruned, the tree may need to be removed (though it’s surprising how often that isn't necessary).

Once the roots have been pruned, the concrete can be ground down to minimize the trip hazard.